by Kimberley McGee – Executive Travel – 03/01/04

Images of Las Vegas are seemingly everywhere — primetime TV, magazine covers and near-constantly on the Travel Channel. But the true beauty of this sparkling city lies beyond the mass of neon on the world-famous Strip. Active business travelers who spend all their time holed up in the city are missing the wide-open spaces that surround the ten-mile stretch of the Strip. The scenic, quiet beauty of the Nevada desert is the best medicine for nerves left jangled by the nonstop hubbub of life, or the clanging of the Strip's slot machines. Let go of your inhibitions in one of the most intriguing geological areas in the country.

Valley of Fire
Get lost amid petroglyphs and rising red-rock faces at the Valley of Fire, just an hour east of Las Vegas. The Valley of Fire is a popular destination for day-hikers, picnickers and campers. The 36,800-acre scenic paradise offers 28 miles of trail systems that wind through coral sand dunes, desert washes and red sandstone canyons more than 150 million years old. Dedicated in 1935, the Valley of Fire is one of Nevada's oldest state parks and offers both easy and difficult hiking, ATV access and extensive trails and Hummer tours, which are available year-round.

Bitter Springs Trail is a 30-mile trek that winds through the park, beginning at Interstate 15 near Glendale and ending at Overton, the tiny town on the shores of the largest man-made water source, Lake Mead.

A popular route for first-timers because of its relatively easy hiking and abundance of sight-seeing opportunities is the Scenic Loop Road. The quick, two-mile hike is a trip through some of the Valley's more interesting formations, such as the towering Arch Rock and delicate Piano Rock. Remember to pack lots of water, no matter the temperature, and take advantage of the shaded rest areas at Atlatl Rock, Seven Sisters, the Cabins and those near Mouse's Tank trailhead. The valley, named for its striking colors, with rocky cliffs of red, gold and orange jutting from the sandy desert floor, is filled with the history of the American West.

A moderate hike from Mouse's Tank trailhead in Petroglyph Canyon offers a glimpse of 1,500-year-old petroglyphs carved into the soft stone by Native Americans. The tank is a natural rock formation that holds rainwater up to six months after a desert storm. The tank was named for a Paiute Indian, Mouse, who used the area to hide out from sheriffs in the late 1800s. The legend is that Mouse killed two prospectors during a drunken episode at an Indian camp along the Colorado River. In 1897, a posse tracked down Mouse near Muddy Spring in the Valley of Fire and ordered him to surrender. Mouse opened fire and died in the subsequent gunfight.

The rocky valley is also alive with big horn sheep, quail, and jack rabbits as well as other assorted wildlife.

The Valley of Fire is an easy, hour-long drive northeast from the city. Tours from your room to the park and back are available through most hotels. The Lost City Museum, which contains the remains of a city that was swallowed up by the advancing waters of Lake Mead as it filled in 1935, is not far from the Valley of Fire.

Horseback riding
The horses in sports books are rather dull compared to horseback-riding tours through the desert mountain ranges to the north of Las Vegas. Experience the rugged Nevada desert by taking one of the many available tours through the Spring Mountain Range.

One of the best is by All-American Adventure Travel and Tours, which offers the Sunset Steak Dinner and Horseback Riding Tour.

The tour picks you up at your hotel room and saddles you into a horse at the Sagebrush Ranch just before sunset. The ranch is located only a few miles northwest of Las Vegas, but still far removed from the city's hustle and bustle. Riders take in the setting sun as they meander over the foothills of the Spring Mountains. The desert sky is ablaze with colors as riders climb a mountain ridge and observe the neon lights of the Strip as they flicker to life. The ride ends back at the ranch, where a steak dinner with all the trimmings awaits by a campfire.

Breakfast and lunch excursions are available as well. The entire trip takes about four-and-a-half hours from door to door. Call All-American Adventure Tours at 702-631-3091.

Red Rock
Leave the 21 tables behind for a 20-minute trip from the Strip to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. The 197,000-acre area holds some of the Mojave Desert's most unusual geological features, colorful plants, wild burros that wander freely and other animals that are a bit more shy. Geologists have deduced that Red Rock Canyon was formed 600 million years ago, when Southern Nevada was a shallow ocean. As the water receded, a fracture in the Earth's crust caused cliffs to rise, forming the landscape of Red Rock.

Red Rock offers easy hiking, cliff climbing, horseback riding and bicycling 17 miles north of Las Vegas on Charleston Boulevard. The typical tourist trip is through Red Rock's scenic loop, a 13-mile drive through the park's breathtaking geological forms or easy bike ride. Traffic is heaviest from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. The park has more than 30 miles of hiking trails picnic areas and an informative visitor center with exhibit rooms for conventioneers and a bookstore.

The First Creek Peak is an easy hike to a seasonal waterfall. The 40-minute, one-mile climb follows an interpretive nature trail and is dotted with information signs. The U.S. Bureau of Land Management collects a $5 fee for each vehicle driving the scenic loop.

Mt. Charleston
If you're feeling a little too hot in the city, take a drive 30 minutes out of town to Mt. Charleston, a cool spot for hikers, skiers and nature lovers. At a peak elevation of 11,918 feet, Charleston Peak is the second highest mountain of the Spring Mountain National Recreation Area, and the highest point of the Nevada portion of the Toiyabe National Forest.

Mt. Charleston's temperature usually hovers 25-30 degrees Fahrenheit below Las Vegas' temperature. The mountain appears barren to the naked eye, but as you ascend the mountain, desert shrubs give way to stubby Joshua trees, yuccas and juniper trees. As you near the Mount Charleston Lodge, the view is thick with ponderosa pines, mountain mahogany and oak brush at the 6,400-foot level. The mountain is capped by aspen firs. Mt. Charleston contains 52 miles of hiking trails, some offering a surprise oasis.

One of the more popular hikes is the relatively easy Big Falls. This one-hour, 3.5-mile hike features one of the most spectacular seasonal waterfalls in the Spring Mountain range and has a delicate climb of 800 feet. A bit more difficult, but worth it for the beauty, is Cathedral Rock. The 3.5-hour, three-mile hike takes you up 1,000 feet and offers great views of the tree-filled Kyle Canyon as well as the lodge, which has food, drinks and a roaring fire for weary hikers. Picnic spots are available in clearings throughout the Toiyabe National Forest.

Skiing
Superb snow skiing, tubing and snowboarding are available from November to March at Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort at Lee Canyon atop Mt. Charleston. The canyon is filled with snow from the desert rains, but snow machines are pressed into service to whiten Lee Canyon's ski trails when the snowfall is low.

If you're feeling really adventurous, take advantage of the famed powder in Utah. Utah? It's a mere three-hour scenic drive east of Las Vegas to the Brian Head ski resort near Cedar City, Utah, which is one of the top skiing spots in the Southwest. Brian Head receives more than 400 inches of Utah's famous light powdery snow annually. More than 50 runs cater to all levels of skiers, including an entire mountain devoted to children or those just starting out on skis.

Snowboarding has gained in popularity at Brian Head, with classes and runs dedicated to the sport.

If you're feeling adventurous, Brian Head is a 10-minute drive from Zion National Park, 229 square miles of dramatic, windswept landscape, sculptured canyons and soaring cliffs.

Lake Mead
Free yourself from long lines at the Strip's distracting attractions for the open-air day hikes at Lake Mead. Boating, sightseeing and nature hikes abound on and around Lake Mead, but for those looking to take advantage of cool weather in Las Vegas, there are some serious yet not-too-difficult hikes along the outer limits of the Lake Mead Recreational Area.

Bring a picnic and your best bathing suit for a favorite local secret, the Arizona Hot Springs. This relatively easy hike takes four hours and crosses nearly six miles through White Rock Canyon, with 100-foot walls, to natural hot springs. The springs are warm year-round and provide privacy as well as a close look at wildlife, plants and interesting rock forms.

A special attraction for Clint Eastwood fans is the Historic Railroad Trail, which was used in Eastwood's early '70s film The Gauntlet. This two-hour, five-mile hike features great views of the lake.

For those looking to be inspired, the Narrows offers a different perspective than the typical hike over rough terrain.

Cutting through a mountain along the shores of Lake Mead, this nature-made wonder is 150 yards in length and slices deep through thick rock. The two-hour, two-and-a-half mile hike often lasts longer as hikers find themselves wandering within the smooth rock face of the Narrows. After experiencing the awe of this sprawling hike, it may be difficult to go back to your four-walled hotel room.

Inside McCarran International

As the seventh busiest airport in the country, McCarran International doesn't disappoint its visiting business travelers. Among its amenities are first-rate shopping, a full-service gym, fine dining and an aviation museum.

Before hitting your hotel, peruse the art culture at McCarran, which has been an important part of this airport's recent changes. Permanent displays of glass, concrete sculptures, murals, children's art and paintings are situated throughout the sprawling terminals. A rotating exhibit at the C Gates offers a glimpse of local artists' works.

The Howard W. Cannon Aviation Museum in Terminal 1 is a must-see for aviation aficionados. The glass-walled museum displays 30 cases of aviation history and offers a short video presentation highlighting local and significant national events that influenced Las Vegas aviation.

Art and history aside, the airport also provides the great Sin City draw—gaming. Video poker and traditional slot machines crowd the aisles of Terminals 1 and 2, so travelers may fulfill their desire to win big up to the last minute.

The heart of the shopping area is located in Terminal 1, close to the A and B Gates. The eclectic mix of shops includes a PGA Tour shop, 24 Hour Flowers, and Gallery of Collectables, as well as the usual airport shops, Tax Free Duty Free shop, Books.co and Brookstone. National chains are also part of the Terminal 1 mall, including Fossil, L'Oreal, Marshall Rousso and The Body Shop.

And if you forgot to pick up a souvenir for that special someone back home, Strip hotels are represented in mini-giftshops fully stocked with T-shirts, jackets, glassware and other Las Vegas novelties. For something out of the ordinary, check out I Can't Believe It's Made In Nevada.

For fitness buffs, the first facility of its kind in the United States is located near the C Gates entrance at 24 Hour Fitness. The full-service center offers showers and locker rooms, steam room and dry sauna, a cardiovascular workout area and a host of exercise equipment. Big-screen TVs are mounted above the workout area. A day pass will cost you $15. For more information, call 702-261-3971.

Kimberley McGee is a freelance writer based in Las Vegas, Nev.

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