by Barbara Benham – Executive Travel – 10/01/04

Poor, misunderstood Washington, D.C. The nation's capital takes the rap for being a one-company town, a place where people are too stiff and do-goody—except, of course, when they're embroiled in some political scandal—and, perhaps the least flattering dig of all, just plain boring. Admittedly, Washington has its serious side. When we talk "party" here inside the Beltway, we usually mean the donkey or elephant variety, not some overly glitzy or, heaven help us, avant-garde event. Decorum simply won't allow it. And most of us actually know how a bill becomes law. But don't worry. We only elaborate when asked.

Despite all of the above, Washington is no stuffed shirt. The good life is alive and well in the nation's capital, with a dazzling restaurant scene, elegant hotels and superlative museums. D.C.'s haunts range from edgy international sophistication to genteel southern hospitality—remember, Washington is south of the Mason-Dixon line—and many things in between. With the pressure off to visit tourist sites like the White House, a business trip can be the perfect time to get to know Washington's sybaritic streak, with a client or on your own.

Lay of the land

George Washington chose the site of the new nation's capital in 1790, on a hunch that the Potomac River would become a major shipping route. Fortunately, he was wrong. Today, the Potomac is "the wildest and most natural river running through a major metropolitan area anywhere in the world," according to a local conservation group. Only pleasure and tour boats use the river.

For business visitors, much of the action is in northwest D.C., which includes downtown, and neighborhoods such as Georgetown, Foggy Bottom, DuPont Circle, Adams Morgan and Woodley Park. Washington's low-lying beauty—no skyscrapers—is the result of an 1899 city ordinance that prohibits buildings taller than the height of the U.S. Capitol. The idea was not to obstruct the view of the city's landmarks, particularly the Washington Monument, which was completed in 1885, from other parts of town.

Entertaining clients

Washington attracts enough culinary stars from around the world, andgrows enough of its own, to make D.C. a great eating town. Yet the selection can be daunting. Like a good spy novel, the scene needs some decoding, so you can pair your client with the right place.

For a truly Washington experience, The Palm on 19th Street never fails. It's a favorite of politicians and pundits. Caricatures of Washington notables like Tim Russert and Hillary Clinton line the walls. Having a caricature placed on the Wall is the Washington equivalent of getting a star on Hollywood Boulevard. The house specialty is a three-poundplus Nova Scotia lobster. Another Washington classic is The Old Ebbitt Grille on 15th Street, across the street from the Treasury Building. The dark paneling and velvet banquettes give the restaurant a clubby feel. The restaurant was established before the Civil War. The kitchen makes some of the best crab cakes in town.

For elegant dining, the 1789 Restaurant in Georgetown is a Washington standard. The French-trained chef, Ris Lacoste, loads up the menu with European standards and the occasional twist, like red snapper with black bean sauce. The five antique-filled dining rooms are in a renovated, 19th-century, Federal-style house. Another classic is Citronelle, also in Georgetown. Chef Michel Richard is one of the best in the U.S. The restaurant, located in The Latham Hotel, has an open kitchen, so guests can watch Richard work his magic.

For groundbreaking organic food, there's Restaurant Nora off DuPont Circle. Nora's is the first fully certified organic restaurant in the U.S. The menu, with delightful interpretations of fish, game and vegetables, is annotated, with notes about the source of every offering.

Cashion's Eat Place in Adams Morgan is another reliably delicious restaurant. Chef Ann Cashion won a James Beard Award this year, for Best Chef in the Mid-Atlantic.

For cool, cutting-edge ambience, try Dragon Fly, a long, sleek sushi bar south of DuPont Circle; or Left Bank, an American eatery in Adams Morgan. Both establishments have stark white interiors. Left Bank accents its decor with orange booths and yellow seats.

For views, The Hotel Washington's Sky Terrace, one block east of the White House, has no rival. (The al fresco terrace closes at the end of October.) On the other side of town, at the new Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Cafe MoZU overlooks the Tidal Basin and the Washington Channel. You can also see the Jefferson Memorial. This could be the plum seat during April's cherry-blossom season.

For fun and culture

For high culture, your best bet is the John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts, home of the National Symphony Orchestra and the Washington Opera Society. The Kennedy Center also regularly stages theatrical productions. For jazz, nothing beats Blues Alley in Georgetown, a small supper club where you can see top talent up close and personal.

Washington's theater scene is thriving. Molly Smith, in her seventh season as director of The Arena Stage, brings fresh interpretations to a wide range of works. At the Shakespeare Theatre, artistic director Michael Kahn does wonders with the Bard's genius.

Next spring, The Woolly Mammoth Theatre will move to its new home at Seventh and D Streets NW, in D.C's Penn Quarter. The neighborhood, which stretches along Seventh Street between Pennsylvania Avenue and Chinatown at Eye Street, is one of those inner-city redevelopment success stories, with upscale restaurants, theaters and museums. Woolly Mammoth is one of the most exciting regional theater groups in the U.S. Its new space will include a three-story lobby and a 268-seat theater. This fall, productions will continue in the Kennedy Center and the Jewish Community Center of Washington.

In addition to the obvious Smithsonian museums on the Mall, Washington has several lesser-known "boutique" museums worth visiting. Just off DuPont Circle, the Phillips Collection displays works of 19th- and 20th century masters, such as Cézanne, Miro, Matisse and, a favorite with the locals, Renoir's The Boating Party. Several blocks to the north, The Textile Museum showcases rugs, tapestries and weavings from around the world. Over in the residential Foxhall neighborhood, The Kreeger Museum exhibits the collection of insurance czar David Kreeger and his wife, Carmen. Phillip Johnson designed the house to accent the couple's collection of van Goghs, Monets and Renoirs.

For laughs, The Improv Comedy and Restaurant club on Connecticut Avenue gets top comedic talent.

Getting around

D.C. is notoriously tricky to navigate by car; if you can get by without one, all the better. If you absolutely must rent a car, be aware that a new law requires cell phone use while driving to be hands-free. Your two best transportation options are taxis and D.C.'s subway system, which is known as the Metro.

The Metro is safe, clean and easy to use, with wellplaced stops throughout D.C. and its suburbs; there are maps in every station and on every car. During the week, the Metro runs from 6 a.m. to midnight. (To check out the Metro online, go to www.wmata.com/metrorail/systemmap.cfm.) When using the Metro, take care to observe local escalator protocol: Stand to the right, so people in a rush can pass you on the left.

D.C.'s taxis are based on a zone system, not meters. It's D.C.'s version of gerrymandering. A long ride can be cheaper than a short ride, depending on how many zones you cover. Cabs display zone maps. If your amount seems high, ask the driver to explain the fare. Second, cab drivers are permitted to pick up other passengers, so long as they don't take you more than four blocks out of your way. So, don't be surprised if you end up sharing a cab with someone.

Getting there

Ronald Reagan National Airport
National, as the locals still refer to the airport, is primarily a "short haul" airport, with service to cities within a 1,250-mile radius, as well as six that are exempt from the distance restriction, including L.A., Las Vegas and Seattle. With 14.2 million passengers last year, National has 44 gates between two terminals. Terminal A, with nine gates, is the original building, built in 1941. There aren't many retail slots outside security: a Sam Adams Brewery and a magazine stand. Inside security, there are a few sandwich stands. A renovation to historic Terminal A has been put on hold.

Terminal B/C is the star, with a stunning atrium with floor-to-ceiling windows and retail establishments galore. Before security, there are restaurants like Legal Seafood and California Pizza Kitchen, plus shops.

A cab into town from National starts at about $15, more during rush hour. Taxi lines form outside both terminals. You can also take the Metro. The Blue and Yellow lines serve the airport. The station's a short walk from Terminal B/C. A shuttle bus also runs from both terminals to the station.

John Foster Dulles International Airport
Dulles was designed by Eero Saarinen, the architect who designed the JFK terminal made famous in the movie Catch Me If You Can. The main terminal looks like a bird in flight. In addition to the main terminal, the airport, which has about 125 gates, has four midfield concourses.

Concourse A is where Independence Air, the new lowcost carrier that's trying to give JetBlue a run for its money, has flown out of since launching in June. Concourse B is shared among national and international carriers. Concourse C is United's, and Concourse D is shared. Dulles does not have many restaurants or shops, period. Inside the checkpoints, there are a few sitdown options, like T.G.I. Friday's.

From Dulles, cabs are pricier because of the distance. SuperShuttle, a van service that takes you right to your hotel or business, is a dependable, reasonable way to get into town (800-258-3826 or www.supershuttle.com). You can reserve a seat in advance or when you get to the airport. There's a stand at Dulles at the Ground Transportation Desk on the lower level, between Baggage Claims 1 and 2. SuperShuttle also serves Reagan and BWI Airports.

Where to sleep

Four Points Sheraton
1201 K Street NW
202-289-7600
Near the new convention center, the Four Points has amenities, such as an indoor pool.

Hotel Monaco
700 F Street NW
800-649-1202; 202-628-7177
A hip but elegant hotel, built in the former Tariff Building, the first all-marble structure in D.C., the Monaco is in D.C.'s revitalized downtown, where restaurants and theaters converge.

Omni Shoreham
2500 Calvert Street NW
202-234-0700
A classic, with an expansive lobby and views of Rock Creek Park. The Omni's a short cab ride to downtown and within walking distance of Adams Morgan and DuPont Circle.

Willard InterContinental
1401 Pennsylvania Avenue NW
202-628-9100
Step out the front steps and turn right, and there's a swell view of the Capitol. This historic hotel is where Lincoln completed his inaugural address and Martin Luther King, Jr., polished his "I Have A Dream" speech.

Where to eat

Cafe MoZU at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel
1330 Maryland Avenue SW
202-787-6868

Cashion's Eat Place
1819 Columbia Road NW
202-797-1819

Citronelle
3000 M Street NW
202-625-2150

Dragon Fly
1215 Connecticut Avenue NW
202-331-1775

The Hotel Washington's Sky Terrace
15th Street & Pennsylvania Avenue NW
202-638-5900

Left Bank
2424 18th Street NW
202-464-2100

Old Ebbitt Grill
675 15th Street NW
202-347-4800

The Palm Restaurant
1220 19th Street NW
202-293-9091

Restaurant Nora
2132 Florida Avenue NW
202-462-5143

1789 Restaurant
1226 36th Street NW
202-965-1789

Where to go

The Arena Stage
1101 Sixth Street SW
202-488-3300

DC IMPROV Comedy Restaurant
1140 Connecticut Avenue NW
202-296-7008

The John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts
2700 F Street NW
800-444-1324

The Phillips Museum
1600 21st Street NW
202-387-2151

The Shakespeare Theatre
450 Seventh Street NW
202-547-1122

The Textile Museum
2320 S Street NW
202-667-0441

The Woolly Mammoth Theatre
7th and D Streets NW
202-289-2443

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