by Kate Sekules – Executive Travel – 10/01/04

If you haven't been to London in a while, prepare to be astounded. the city has been on an upswing for over a decade. Getting there: Virtually every U.S. flight lands at the world's busiest international airport, Heathrow, 15 miles west of central London. The fastest way into town is the 15-minute Heathrow Express. The downside: Signage at the airport seems designed to taunt visitors, and the destination is none-too-central Paddington Station. But it beats an hour in traffic on the A40.

Getting around

London is huge. At about two minutes per stop, the tube (subway) is the fastest transportation method-pick up a free map at any station (it's a design classic) and buy a day pass, also valid on buses. Nobody will think you're common; just smart. If you must take taxis, be comforted by the new Congestion Charge—a daily gridlock-busting tax for private cars in central Londone—because those big Cs painted on the streets will halve your fares. Also, you're in the best hands. London cabbies are famous for The Knowledge, a grueling examination in tiny side streets and direct routese—and also for being chatty. Talking of talking, Londoners, not generally early adopters, invented the overuse of cell phones ("mobiles"), and texting is a national sport. Consider renting a tri-band and having business cards printed for your stay.

Restaurants

Another national sport is eating, as you can tell from the hundred newspaper food supplements. Restaurants are pricey, but service is usually included, so don't tip twice. And, unless clients would think you cheap, avoid the ubiquitous £5 bottles of mineral water; London tap water is great! And always reserve ahead, especially for the following top tables.

Most business takes place in The City (for financial dealings) or the West End, so these are convenient. On the edges of The City, find three fabulous, hip eateries for all but the stuffiest of clients: St. John (26 St. John Street, 020 7251 0848) is a bare, white setting for chef Fergus Henderson's delicious, stark and meaty foode—he calls it "Nose to Tail Eating," partly because he loves organ meats. Nearby, find Moro (34-36 Exmouth Market, 020 7833 8336), on a pedestrianized street, for the Spanish-Moorish food of husband-and-wife chefs Sam and Sam Clark (really!) and a warm atmosphere. In trendy, arty Hoxton, The Real Greek (15 Hoxton Market, 020 7739 8212) is self-explanatory, but don't let the boring name put you off some of London's best food.

More formal places in The City are the Michelin-starred Club Gascon (57 West Smithfield, 020 7796 0600) for chef Pascal Aussignac's dishes from Gascony, and three with heavenly views: At Rhodes Twenty Four (24th Floor, Tower 42, 25 Old Broad Street, 020 7877 7703), eat celebrity chef Gary Rhodes's proudly British food in a rare high-floor location. Smiths of Smithfield Top Floor (67-77 Charterhouse Street, 020 7251 7950) is lower, but has St. Paul's front and center, along with its steaks—this is steps from London's main meat market. The incredible river view from Oxo Tower (Barge House Street, 020 7803 3888) also stars St. Paul's, but this time from the South Bank; high prices for fairly ordinary brasserie food are worth it for a terrace table. Baltic (74 Blackfriars Road, 020 7928 1111) is one more edge-of-The-City place for clients or off-duty—it's a happening scene with amazing Polish-modern food and cocktails.

The West End is crammed with options, but you won't go wrong with these three new stars. The Wolseley (160 Piccadilly, 020 7499 6996) is an Art Nouveau palace by the restaurateurs who own this town, Jeremy King and Chris Corbin—it's open for breakfast, tea, supper and everything between, and is the celebspotting center. Gordon Ramsay at Claridge's (55 Brook Street, 020 7499 0099) is for impressing in grand style (at grand cost), with the famed chef's updated classical French cuisine in a formal Art Deco room. Way less formal and very grown-up hip, Yauatcha (15 Broadwick Street, 020 7494 8888) reinvents dim sum as an evening option, but not like Amma made—roast venison puffs or prawn-and-date dumplings are typical. Reinvented Indian cuisine is a huge London trend, of which Cinnamon Club (The Old Westminster Library, Great Smith Street, 020 7222 2555) is an exemplar, and a great business venue, with its clubby-Victorian look. The biggest game in town for power lunches is back: The Savoy Grill (Strand, 020 7592 1600) is one hot ticket, now that it's under the aegis of multi-award-winning Marcus Wareing. Another winner in the estimable Savoy Hotel Group's restaurant stable, Angela Hartnett at the Connaught (16 Carlos Place, 020 7592 1222), is a formal wood-paneled room showcasing this exciting chef's invigorating modern Italian menus. The excellent London version of Nobu (Metropolitan Hotel, 19 Old Park Lane, 020 7447 4747) needs no intro, but is so useful to know. Lastly, here are two eponymous chefs' palaces for die-hard foodies: Locanda Locatelli (8 Seymour Street, 020 7935 9088), Italian genius chef Georgio Locatelli's HQ, and modern sui generis Tom Aikens (43 Elystan Street, 020 7584 2003) in Chelsea, which is the most sought-after table in London.

Hotels

Try these for location, services and rates (for a double room per night) that don't require a mortgage. The only hotel within The City's Square Mile is the Great Eastern (40 Liverpool Street, 020 7618 7000, from £225 ), a lovely redo of the original Victorian railway hotel. It has an art theme and is especially attuned to lone female travelers—not formal at all, and quite lively for an evening. Also in The City is Malmaison (Charterhouse Square, 020 7012 3700, from £165), one of a small, decor-conscious chain with the bonus of free, fast Internet access, plus two line phones and meeting rooms.

In the West End are two townhouse places that act like home: 22 Jermyn Street (020 7734 2353, from £210) is a posh address in the heart of St. James's on the bespoke tailors' street. Any business services they don't provide are at a next-door office center (check out www.voffice.com). A bargain version is 10 Manchester Street (020 7486 6669, from £150), in trendy Marylebone, which, besides the usual facilities, offers satellite TV and U.S. dataports. One for splurging on, without regrets, is One Aldwych (020 7300 1000, from £305), in theaterland, the sleekest, kindest, most comfortable hotel anywhere, with private phone numbers, ISDN lines, meeting rooms and more. And one for the frugal: The Elizabeth (37 Eccleston Square, 020 7828 6812, from £92), in Victoria, is a friendly, quiet, simple place that's been hosting Americans on a budget for years.

Time off

Here's a whistle-stop tour of the latest fun. Art: Don't miss The Tate Modern, as much for the building as the art, and the Saatchi Galleries in County Hall (opposite Big Ben) for those cheeky "YBA"s (Young British Artists). At the other extreme, the John Madejski Fine Rooms, showing Degas, Constables and Turners, have just opened at the Royal Academy of Arts on Piccadilly. Theater: As well as the West End offerings, the National Theatre, under its new director, Sam Mendes, is turning out one spectacular success after another. Sights: Take a trip on the futuristic Docklands Light Railway (change at Bank tube) to see Greenwich, the Tower of London and the entirely new neighborhood of Canary Wharf. See for miles from the London Eye, the giant, slow Ferris wheel by the South Bank Centre. Shopping: Food lovers flock to newish Borough Market, near London Bridge, for everything edibly organic, handmade, homegrown and special. Recently overhauled, Liberty on Regent Street beats Harrods hands down, and even trendy Selfridges, for finely edited selections of clothes, leather goods, housewares, jewelry—in fact, any gift you may require. And don't worry if you run out of time, because Heathrow Terminal 3, which serves U.S. airlines, is a shopping mecca in its own right.

Kate Sekules, born in London, currently freelances in New York.

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