Toronto has a talent for reinvention that would be the envy of any pop star. Not long ago, the city was known as the Belfast of the North for its abstemious ways. In the 1970s, Sir Peter Ustinov quipped that Toronto was New York run by the Swiss, creating an image that still lingers of a town that is cosmopolitan but politely reserved. In the 1990s, the United Nations named Toronto the world's most international city, in no small part because by then, the former British outpost was home to more than 90 different ethnic groups from all over the world.

Then in 2003 came the crisis. Toronto became one of the first cities outside of southern China to be slammed by the SARS virus, and it was the only city outside of Asia that the World Health Organization warned people not to visit. The effect on Toronto was both negligible and monumental. On the one hand, the city's residents went about their business as usual, with nary a face mask in sight, happy to score tables easily at many of the city's best restaurants. But those tables were empty because both business and leisure travelers were steering clear of the city. The tourism trade was in tatters, and it seemed as if the city's business and cultural life were going to suffer as well.

But Toronto, maverick that it is, saw an opportunity to make itself over yet again. Instead of trying to quietly fold up the memory of the SARS panic, Toronto hosted a blockbuster event to herald the city's comeback. Dubbed SARSapalooza by local wags, the event was headlined by the Rolling Stones and turned into Canada's largest rock concert in history. The city put forward a bold new face in other ways, too. Suddenly, it seemed like the right time to re-create its key arts institutions: Frank Gehry was tapped to design an inspiring new space for the Art Gallery of Ontario, and the Royal Ontario Museum began work to build a network of crystal galleries envisioned by Daniel Libeskind. Construction began on the opera house that will be the permanent home of the Canadian Opera Company.

The city has changed in other ways in the past few years. Almost half of Canada's new immigrants now come to Toronto. The city's downtown was never abandoned, as in many of its American counterparts, but only recently has the "core" started to expand. Neighborhoods that have languished for years are being reclaimed and revitalized by local artists and entrepreneurs. Take Parkdale, a once gloomy area west of the downtown core that has been designated the Art & Design District. East of the downtown core is the new Distillery Historic District, which housed a 19th-century industrial complex and is now home to several dance and theater troupes, art galleries and bistros.

Here's the kicker: Toronto has got the style and showiness of a great metropolis. But it is still a startlingly clean and safe city. And yes, it's still polite.

The city's character
The strangest thing about Toronto is its modesty. Adopted Torontonians can be the exception, such as Jane Jacobs, the urban philosopher who wrote The Death and Life of Great American Cities. She moved to Toronto in the late 1960s and has written extensively about the city's thriving community life ever since. But born-and-bred Torontonians will seldom tell you their city is the best in the world, despite international studies that say Toronto has one of the highest quality-of-life standards anywhere.

It's impossible to understand local reticence without understanding Toronto's position within Canada. Toronto is the economic engine of the country: The Toronto Stock Exchange is the most important national exchange, and the headquarters of Canada's five largest banks are located in the city, as are the headquarters of about 80 percent of foreign banks operating in the country. Toronto is also the leader in education: The University of Toronto is consistently the top-ranked college in Canada; York University is famous for its law school, and Ryerson for its journalism school. Toronto is the heart of Canada's cultural life: National troupes such as the Canadian Opera Company and the National Ballet of Canada are based here, the Canadian Broadcasting Company is headquartered in the city, and it's home to renowned authors such as Margaret Atwood, Rohinton Mistry and Barbara Gowdy. And Toronto is known as Hollywood North for its entertainment industry. It's still a favorite place for American productions to film, and the Toronto International Film Festival every September is the largest movie event in the world after Cannes.

Given this impressive résumé, it's easier to understand why the rest of the country considers Toronto arrogant, and why Torontonians go out of their way to prove otherwise. Imagine New York, Los Angeles and Boston all rolled into one—that's Toronto's status in Canada. Just about the only thing the city doesn't house is the federal government (though as the capital of the province of Ontario, Toronto is home to the provincial legislature).

What to see and do
Toronto is, first and foremost, a green city, with lush parkland generously spread throughout. In addition to High Park in the western section of the city (the equivalent to New York's Central Park, complete with its own summer theater, zoo and fishing pond), there are many other great green spaces downtown. Allan Gardens has beautiful manicured lawns and an Edwardian conservatory, which is maintained by the University of Toronto. Queen's Park, a lush midtown oasis, also contains the rose-tinted, sandstone-and-granite building that houses the Ontario Legislature. But Toronto's waterfront holds the most unusual park: the Toronto Music Garden. Designed by cellist Yo-Yo Ma and landscape architect Julie Moir Messervy, the swirling pathways are intended to evoke Bach's "First Suite for Unaccompanied Cello."

Toronto's finest museum, the Royal Ontario Museum (ROM), is presently mid- renovation. Some of its collections are not on view while the new crystal galleries designed by Daniel Libeskind are being built. To compensate, the ROM is hosting a series of special exhibits in its ground-floor galleries. One on the origins and splendor of pearl has just wrapped up; another on feathered dinosaurs will be on view till fall 2005. (The renovation will be completed in 2006.)

Across the street from the ROM is the George R. Gardiner Museum of Ceramic Art. Closed for renovations for almost two years, it is expected to reopen in fall 2005. Almost double its original size, the museum will have enough room to display its vast collections, which include pre-Columbian Olmec and Maya works, fine 18th-century European porcelain and ceramic art by Picasso. Frank Gehry's ambitious renovation of the Art Gallery of Ontario is just beginning, but its notable collection of Group of Seven works (paintings of Canada's wilderness by its greatest landscape artists of the 20th century) will be on show throughout.

Toronto's CN Tower—the world's tallest freestanding structure—is the city's most overrated attraction. Don't bother visiting if the day is gray; if it's bright and sunny, the sight of Niagara Falls, 100 miles to the south, is worth a visit.

A little-known fact about Toronto is that the city's spa culture is cutting-edge. Some of the best places to indulge include the Victoria Spa, which is famous for its stellar service and gifted massage therapists; the Stillwater Spa, which specializes in water-based therapies (think shiatsu in a sunken room filled with water); and the Estée Lauder Spa, which has a special Jet Lag Recovery treatment for frequent flyers. All spas cater to male and female clients.

Here's one more indulgence, if you have the time for a day trip. Just south and west of Toronto is the Niagara region, the best wine country in Canada. Follow its Wine Route to discover for yourself why local vintners such as Inniskillen, Henry of Pelham and Pillitteri are winning international competitions. Niagara's wineries use imported European vines, and because the region lies on the same latitude as France's Burgundy region, this meeting of Old and New World results in bottles of Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon that are consistently excellent.

Entertaining clients
In this international city, it's easy to find restaurants to please every palate. Toronto's most famous chef, Susur Lee, runs the eponymous Susur, which features an East-meets-West menu that changes daily. Canoe, located on the 54th floor of the Mies van der Rohe–designed Toronto Dominion Tower, is a longtime favorite for business lunches and dinners because of its inspired view, vast wine cellar and excellent menu of Canadian meats and seafood. Also downtown is Bymark, which is too noisy for quiet conversation but perfect for celebratory dinners (it's a great see-and-be-seen place). One of the most popular spots for business luncheons is Lai Wah Heen, which serves top-notch Cantonese cuisine.

Sports fans have two clubhouses. The first is the Air Canada Centre, home to the Toronto Raptors basketball team and the Toronto Maple Leafs hockey team. SkyDome, soon to be renamed the Rogers Centre, is where the Toronto Blue Jays baseball team plays. The Hockey Hall of Fame, located inside BCE Place, can be rented for private functions.

Toronto is blessed with a wealth of first-class entertainment venues: Roy Thomson Hall is the place to listen to classical music, while Massey Hall is where you'll hear the likes of Diana Krall. The city loves its blockbuster musical shows, which you'll find in the Entertainment District along King Street West: The two greatest venues here are the Royal Alexandra Theatre and the Princess of Wales Theatre. But don't overlook the city's wacky side—after all, this is the town that spawned Mike Myers and Jim Carrey. Local comedy clubs such as The Laugh Resort, Yuk Yuk's and Second City all feature famous headliners and up-and-coming local talent.

Getting there

Toronto Pearson International Airport is Canada's busiest airport, and it currently serves more than 65 airlines. The airport is in the midst of a 10-year, $4.4 billion Airport Development Program that will expand and upgrade its facilities. In 2004, its long-awaited new terminal opened up. As promised, it's a beautifully designed space that's the polar opposite of gloomy Terminal 1, which it is intended to replace. Terminal 2, primarily the home of Air Canada, will be replaced in the future as well. The other terminal is the Trillium Terminal 3, an airy, modern facility with moving walkways, a variety of restaurants and many shops.

Pearson is approximately 30 minutes from downtown Toronto. The trip usually takes 10 to 15 minutes longer during the weekday morning rush (7–9 a.m.) and evening rush (4–7 p.m.). A taxi costs about $36, and a flat-rate limousine costs around $40; there are no tolls or extra fees to pay. You don't need a reservation for limo service.

Restaurants
Bymark
66 Wellington Street West
416-777-1144

Canoe
66 Wellington Street West, 54th Floor
416-364-0054

Lai Wah Heen
108 Chestnut Street
416-977-9899

Susur
601 King Street West
416-603-2205

Hotels
The Fairmont Royal York
100 Front Street West
416-368-2511
Legendary service at the center of it all

The Four Seasons
21 Avenue Road
416-964-0411
Midtown location favored by celebrities; renowned for top-notch service

Park Hyatt
4 Avenue Road
416-925-1234
The most glamorous hotel in Toronto; its rooftop bar is the most famous literary haunt in the city

SoHo Metropolitan Hotel
318 Wellington Street West
416-599-8800
The city's most luxurious boutique hotel, located a short walk from the Financial District and the Entertainment District

The Suites at 1 King Street West
1 King Street West
416-363-7399
An option for longer stays: fully furnished condos with luxe amenities

Hilary Davidson is a freelance writer born and raised in Toronto, but currently living in New York.