There's a magical atmosphere in any waterside city, but the Danish capital is perhaps more magical than most. Whether you're a businessperson acting Alice Through the Looking Glass from the boardroom of hypermodern, harborside business complexes, or a visitor perched atop verdigris spires overlooking the rooftops of a medieval capital, Copenhagen is the perfect mix of bustling business and ephemeral beauty.

Spiraling around a medieval core of winding streets, bright-hued baroque houses and pastel-colored neoclassical buildings, Copenhagen is a compact gem for anyone looking for leisurely strolls, people-watching and an excuse to while away time in cafés or look through loads of little fashion shops, antique stores and design temples.

But there is more to the city than a Sleeping Beauty fairytale ambience. Denmark's booming economy has offset a building bonanza, with new and boldly conceived residential and commercial areas emerging along the old harbor areas. Among the more spectacular public buildings are the new Opera House, which will soon be joined by a new Royal Playhouse, and the Royal Library, housed in a new Copenhagen landmark named The Black Diamond.

The main drawbacks to Copenhagen? High costs and a somewhat variable climate—but these are small prices to pay for the pleasure of spending time in this charming city.

Getting around
Many destinations are best reached by foot, as the central part of Copenhagen is crisscrossed by pedestrian areas, the old streets are narrow and cobblestoned, and distances are short. But if you have a spare afternoon, harbor a streak of audacity and want to join the cycling natives, deposit a 20-kroner coin to release a free bike from one of the many stands throughout the inner city. You will get your coin back when you return the bike to the same or another stand. Remember, though, that in Denmark, cyclists are subject to the same traffic rules as cars. This means that you must cycle on the right side of the street and stick out your arm to indicate when you want to turn a corner. Taxis are easy to get hold of from stands or can be hailed in the street, but they are quite expensive. Buses and a subway take care of public transportation.

Hotels
While the main hotel district, with medium-class and budget hotels, is concentrated west of the central station, the more select, individual and well-situated hotels are scattered around the heart of the city and are ideal for reaching business venues in most neighborhoods.

A fine example of the latter is the lavish fin-de-siècle Hotel D'Angleterre (Kongens Nytorv 34, tel. 33 12 00 95), across from the Royal Theatre. Ask for a room facing Kongens Nytorv and enjoy a panoramic view of the square and down the popular Nyhavn quayside, filled with multicolored 18th-century houses and lively restaurants and bars.

Another five-star choice is designer hotel Skt. Petri (Krystalgade 22, tel. 33 45 91 00), with an excellent downtown location. The hotel opened two years ago in a converted department store and houses the city's hottest hotel bar, Bar Rouge.

For a completely different experience, try the amazing Hotel Fox (Jarmers Plads 3, tel. 33 13 30 00), where all the rooms are individually decorated by different international designers. The idea was conceived by Volkswagen and the hotel was used as part of a two-week launch of the new VW Fox model in summer 2005.

Finally, a more conventional yet comfortable and pleasant hotel is the Copenhagen Admiral (Toldbodgade 24-28, tel. 33 74 14 14). Located in a converted 18th-century warehouse with heavy wooden beams and lots of atmosphere, this hotel is a few steps from the Royal Palace and boasts a spectacular view of the harbor and Copenhagen's new Opera House.

Restaurants
If you're looking for top-notch modern Danish cuisine, descend a few steps for a treat at Kong Hans Kælder (Vingårdsstræde 6, tel. 33 11 68 68, www.konghans.dk). Copenhagen's oldest Michelin-starred gourmet restaurant is still going strong in its medieval cellar in a modest back street. There's nothing modest about the food, though.

For an inventive gourmet meal, try Restaurant Noma (Strandgade 93, tel. 32 96 32 97, www.noma.dk), which specializes in seafood from the cold and clean depths of the North Atlantic.

Another fine eating experience is offered at Kanalen (Wilders Plads 2, tel. 32 95 13 30, www.restaurant-kanalen.dk/ukmenu.htm), serving the best raw materials of the season. Dine in the summer on the quayside terrace and in the winter in the warm glow of candles. It's a pleasant place to bring your business contacts.

Cozy Peder Oxe (Gråbrødretorv 11, tel. 33 11 00 77, www.pederoxe.dk), in the heart of the medieval city, serves a good-quality, reasonably priced meal and is ideal for a business lunch or dinner. Switch on the light above the table, aircraft-style, to call the attention of the waitress, and be sure not to miss the lavish salad bar.

Another centrally located Copenhagen favorite is L'Education National (Lars Bjørnsstræde 12, tel. 33 91 53 60, www.leducation.dk—homepage in Danish only), with traditional French fare and student-type patrons. Make sure to book in advance.

A particularly good deal is informal RizRaz (Store Kannikestræde 19, tel. 33 32 33 45, and Kompanistræde 20, tel. 33 15 05 75, www.rizraz.dk—homepage in Danish only), serving inexpensive Middle Eastern food at two central locations. The delicious vegetarian buffet is more than enough, but it can be supplemented by meat dishes.

For business lunches, Danish open-faced sandwiches called smørrebrød are a must, and they can be sampled at lunch eateries throughout the city. For one example, try classy Amalie (Amaliegade 11, tel. 33 12 88 10) or the epitome of Copenhagen smørrebrød restaurants, Ida Davidsen (Store Kongensgade 70, tel. 33 91 36 55, www.idadavidsen.dk). Madame Ida belongs to the fifth generation of restaurant owners in her family, and her menu offers the longest and the most inventive list of sandwiches you can imagine.

ULLA PLON is a writer based in Copenhagen.

At your leisure
If you have a spare hour: Copenhagen's long pedestrian street, Strøget, awaits. Bustling with life, it offers the city's best shopping, including design icons Illums Bolighus Scandinavian design store, Georg Jensen silverware and Royal Copenhagen porcelain.

If you have a spare day: Stroll Copenhagen's medieval center; climb the 17th-century Round Tower at Købmagergade, with its 620-foot spiral ramp; and visit the renaissance palace, Rosenborg Castle, to see the crown jewels. And don't miss out on an hour's leisurely ride in a rocking canal and harbor boat that will take you past many of the city's most important sights, including the famous statue of Hans Christian Andersen's Little Mermaid.

If you have a spare weekend: Dedicate a day to the delights of North Zealand, outside of the city. Visit the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art—the buildings are artwork themselves—and Hamlet's castle at Elsinore. This famous Shakespearean setting is a marvelous 16th-century castle across from the coast of Sweden. And when in Copenhagen, don't miss the fun and atmosphere of the world's oldest theme park, the Tivoli Gardens. Best enjoyed in the summer, the park is more chilly around Christmas and closed in-between (open May–September and November–December).

Getting there
Award-winning Copenhagen Airport is pleasant, efficient and close to the city center. Reach central Copenhagen by train from right under the Arrival Lounge (leaves every 10 minutes, 19-minute ride to the main station, costs DKK 25) or taxi (takes about the same time and costs DKK 175). Car rental firms are at the airport, but unless you have business out of town, don't bother with a car, as walking distances are relatively short. On departure, if you missed out on shopping in the city, the airport offers a decent selection of stores.

Hotels
Hotel D'Angleterre
Kongens Nytorv 34
1022 Copenhagen K
Tel. 33 12 00 95
www.remmen.dk/dangleterre

Hotel Skt. Petri
Krystalgade 22
1172 Copenhagen
Tel. 33 45 91 00
www.hotelsktpetri.com

Hotel Fox
Jarmers Plads 3
DK-1551 Copenhagen V
Tel. 33 13 30 00
www.hotelfox.dk

Copenhagen Admiral Hotel
Toldbodgade 24-28
DK-1253 Copenhagen K
Tel. 33 74 14 14
www.admiralhotel.dk

Doing business in Copenhagen
People do business differently in different cultures, so what wins the day in Wichita may cause a conflict in Copenhagen. A basic understanding of Danish culture is essential to successful business in Denmark. Here are some fundamentals to get you started:

While Danes are often seen by fellow Scandinavians (that's Norwegians and Swedes) as a fairly independent lot, Danish individualism is always well-tempered by a serious concern for how one's actions impact others. The classic Danish manager is soft-spoken and always consults with his or her staff, involving them deeply in any decision. Expect decisions to take more time, and be prepared to explain your proposals to—and answer questions from—the entire staff.

Moderation is a deeply held value in Danish culture: There is a disdain for excess, whether in the level of emotion that people display (keep your voice low and your demeanor calm), enthusiasm ("over-the-top" hype is suspect, matter-of-fact reality is much preferred) or the rewards expected to be gained from a project (there is such a thing as too much profit in Denmark, and it will be taxed heavily!).

Treat men and women equally in all business dealings. Danish culture is one of the most egalitarian in the world: Gender and age have little or no influence on authority, and men and women are rewarded equally for their competence in both the business world (women can be presidents of major corporations) and family life (men who choose to stay home with the kids are admired like their female counterparts).

Disagreements and conflict are expressed in indirect ways. Listen closely, as Danes will rarely come right out and tell you directly why they think your ideas won't work. Humor is often a way of getting things back on a more even keel when disagreements threaten a negotiation, but direct confrontation does not work.

And when that deal is finally signed, schedule a celebratory meal in a fine restaurant, and toast ("Skol!") with some aquavit and beer.
—Dean Foster