Over the past three decades, San Diego's urban core has undergone an extreme makeover. Today, it rocks. But 30 years ago, there was a bit of a self-image problem. In 1972, then-mayor Pete Wilson boldly dubbed San Diego "America's Finest City." Bland, yes, but the nickname helped assuage locals after Richard Nixon picked San Diego to host the GOP national convention—then, in a national slap in the face, jilted the city at the last minute.

Politically speaking, San Diego—considered a sleepy little Navy town well into the 1980s—has been a Republican stronghold. Heck, Nixon (before the nixing) called San Diego his "lucky city." Today's politicians swing more toward moderate, but they aren't exactly feeling lucky. In 2005, after it was revealed the city's pension system was underfunded by nearly $2 billion, the mayor resigned. In a separate scandal dubbed "Strippergate," two city councilmen were forced out of office. And late last year, a San Diego congressman admitted he accepted $2.4 million in bribes. National headline writers gave San Diego a new and unwanted nickname: "Enron-by-the-Sea."

Political resolution is underway. And for unruffled San Diegans and city visitors, the party is still going strong—especially downtown. The center city area is an exciting package. A residential boom has meant even more restaurants and bars have opened up in places like Little Italy and the entertainment district known as the Gaslamp Quarter.

Petco Park was recently constructed. Home to Major League Baseball's San Diego Padres, the park fits the city-as-palate design test: sandstone exterior, integration with a historic warehouse district, and a grassy play area outside the outfield known as the Park at the Park.

Best of all: The Gaslamp and Petco are walking distance from a recently expanded convention center and a plethora of hotels, including upscale old favorites like the Westgate and hip new places like Hotel Solamar. The business traveler has it made. You really could spend all your travel time downtown and never need to call a taxi.

The city's character
It's been said San Diego is a laid-back burg, even though it's the country's seventh-largest city. But, yes, coastal cities within San Diego County—places like Mission Beach, Pacific Beach and the liberal enclave of Ocean Beach—are densely populated by play-now-work-later surfer dudes and dudettes.

In a sense, the San Diego region has borders on all sides. To the west is the Pacific Ocean; go not-too-far east, and you're in the Anza-Borrego Desert. A short ride south from the heart of downtown will place you at the Mexico border. To the north is Camp Pendleton. This military base acts as a buffer to Orange County and widely vilified Los Angeles.

Yes, vilified. The last thing native San Diegans want is for their city to be compared to L.A. in any shape or form. L.A. represents glamour and glitz. That's not to say San Diego's beaches aren't teeming with attractive, well-toned denizens. But the City of Angels is Marcia to San Diego's Jan; San Diego is St. Paul to L.A.'s Minneapolis. San Diego is cleaner and prettier, yet the national news media still treats San Diego as a suburb of Los Angeles.

San Diego proper can be sliced three ways. In the middle is the city, which is centrally sandwiched by the North County and the South Bay.

The city is reinvigorating, and neighborhoods are redefining themselves. Little Italy, with its abundance of new high-rises and a trendy restaurant scene, is undergoing a renaissance. East Village, home to Petco Park, is packed with potential. And on weekends, the Gaslamp Quarter is jammed—this Fifth Avenue hot spot is always ripe with revelers.

The affluent can be found in North County. Coastal La Jolla is certainly a pocket of wealth, but North County's Rancho Santa Fe is regularly listed as the most affluent neighborhood in the country. You won't be able to see a lot of the mansions from outside gated communities, but a winding drive along the Del Dios Highway—mountains give way to ravines that blend into sparkling lakes—is a day trip worth taking. If you go, stop for a snack at Hernandez Hideaway (19320 Lake Drive, 760-746-1444).

Southern San Diego is on an upswing. Not so much with condos, but with single-family-home communities that are popping up in places like Eastlake, just minutes from the Mexico border.

What to see
For grown-up fun, cruise downtown to the Gaslamp. Four historic blocks of Fifth Avenue are the main drag, but there are bar and restaurant selections on Fourth and Sixth avenues, too. Listen to live music at Croce's (802 Fifth Avenue, 619-233-4355), run by the widow of folk music legend Jim Croce. Smoke a cigar on the rooftop deck at Stingaree (454 Sixth Avenue), a brand-new, three-level club/restaurant that's getting buzz as the next big thing. Or take in Altitude (660 K Street, 619-446-6088), a 20th-floor rooftop bar atop the Gaslamp Marriott Hotel, with sight lines right down into Petco Park.

If you go for the Gaslamp at night, choose La Jolla when the sun is out. There are more than 1,400 businesses in this seaside setting. Sure, there's nightlife, but it's subdued. The old-school Whaling Bar & Grill inside La Valencia Hotel (1132 Prospect Street, 619-454-0771) is as hopping a spot as you'll find.

Shopping options abound on La Jolla's Prospect and Girard Streets. Don't bother hunting bargains—these are pricey boutiques and department stores. Parking is also at a premium. It can be tough to find a spot for your rental amid the rows of BMWs and Lexuses lining the streets.

One of the region's best golf courses is nearby. Tee times at the municipal Torrey Pines Golf Courses (11480 North Torrey Pines Road, 800-985-4653) are widely sought. The PGA Tour annually holds its Buick Invitational here, and the 2008 U.S. Open will be played at Torrey Pines. Other very fine public courses include Barona Creek (1000 Wildcat Canyon Road, 619-443-2300) and Aviara (7447 Batiquitos Drive, 760-603-6800).

Before you depart La Jolla—with your credit card still smoking—reconnect with nature at the Children's Pool. This watery outcropping down at La Jolla Cove is a misnomer. The beach has been taken over by wild seals, even when there aren't any children to be seen. At least a dozen seals are always on hand for pictures or simple viewing pleasure.

If culture trumps nature in your book, then the museums of Balboa Park (1549 El Prado, 619-239-0512) are a must-see. Balboa Park is home to the zoo and 15 museums, including exhibitions of photographs, modern history, aviation and automobiles. There's also a Reuben H. Fleet Science Center and an Imax movie theater.

The San Diego Zoo (2920 Zoo Drive, 619-234-3153) is iconic. For years, Joan Embrey took wild creatures from the zoo onto the national stage that was the "Tonight Show with Johnny Carson." Today, the zoo is as big a treasure as ever. The panda exhibit is a primary draw—presently, there are two adults and two cubs.

The zoo has a sister facility called the Wild Animal Park (15500 San Pasqual Valley Road, 760-747-8702). Since it's more expansive, the best way to enjoy views into the park's African animal habitats is via a Wgasa Bush Line railway tour. San Diego is also home to SeaWorld (500 Sea World Drive, 800-25-SHAMU)—and yes, Shamu is as sharp as ever. If you have smaller kids in tow, yet another amusement park option you might consider is Legoland (One Legoland Drive, 760-918-5346).

If blackjack and slots are your thing, look for the nine Indian gaming casinos in proximity to downtown San Diego (most within a 45-minute drive). The most popular are Barona Valley Ranch (888-7-BARONA), Viejas (800-847-6537) and Sycuan (619-445-2613).

Entertaining clients
If you're looking for steak, you have a multitude of upscale choices. Two not to miss: Donovan's Steak & Chophouse and Po Pazzo. Donovan's waitstaff is very knowledgeable about the science of cuts of meat. Po Pazzo is the latest offering by the Busalacchi family, which has five Italian restaurants in and nearby Little Italy.

Want something to look at with your fine dining? Two choices with very different views will impress you and your guests. The Marine Room rests right on the sand at La Jolla Cove. During high tide, waves splash on a (reinforced) glass wall in the main dining room. And the downtown San Diego skyline sparkles right outside the glass walls of 12th-floor-situated Bertrand at Mr. A's. Order the lobster bisque and watch for a steady stream of airplanes landing at nearby Lindbergh Field.

The best seafood in town is served on fine linen at the Oceanaire Seafood Room. Many restaurants claim to serve Maryland-style crab cakes, but Oceanaire's authentic back-fin babies are unparalleled on the West Coast.

If it's baseball season, go for the comfy and clean seats at Petco Park. The food is simply fair, and the San Diego Padres rarely make the playoffs, but games have become a place to be seen.

The San Diego Chargers play football at Qualcomm Stadium in Mission Valley. The Chargers have been slightly more competitive of late, but getting tickets to a game is rarely a problem. For both Chargers and Padres games, consider taking the trolley. The trolley stops walking distance to both stadiums; extra trains run on game days.

RON DONOHO is executive editor of San Diego Magazine.

Restaurants
Bertrand at Mr. A's
2550 Fifth Avenue
619-239-1377

Donovan's Steak & Chophouse
4340 La Jolla Village Drive
858-450-6666

The Marine Room
2000 Spindrift Drive
858-459-7222

Oceanaire Seafood Room
400 J Street
619-858-2277

Po Pazzo
1917 India Street
619-238-1917

Hotels
Four Seasons Resort Aviara
7100 Four Seasons Point
Carlsbad
760-603-6800

Hotel del Coronado
1500 Orange Avenue
Coronado
619-435-6611

The Lodge at Torrey Pines
11480 North Torrey Pines Road
La Jolla
858-453-4420

Loews Coronado Bay Resort
4000 Coronado Bay Road
Coronado
619-424-4000

Manchester Grand Hyatt
One Market Place
619-232-1234
Located downtown

Omni San Diego
675 L Street
619-231-6664
Located downtown, adjacent to Petco Park

Getting there
San Diego International Airport (Lindbergh Field) is smaller than you'd expect for the nation's seventh-largest city. This single-runway airport is served by 18 commercial airlines, with Southwest operating the most flights. There is a commuter terminal, as well as two main terminals (3665 North Harbor Drive). The airport is right in the heart of downtown. It's a roughly $10 taxi ride to the San Diego Convention Center.